A Word of Caution About Vinegar and Castile Soap
February 3rd, 2011Dr. Bronner’s Castile soap and vinegar can clean an entire house. They are effective, versatile, biodegradable, and non-toxic. But the sole point of this post is to emphasize that these two should not be mixed directly. This is true for the castile soap and any acid – any vinegar or lemon juice.
Since there have been several recommendations in online recipes and on TV to mix these two together, I want to address this topic. It’s not a dangerous combination, but it’s definitely moving in the wrong direction as far as getting things clean.
Here’s why.
In great part it’s due to the fact that vinegar is an acid and the castile soap is a base. They will directly react with each other and cancel each other out. So, instead of getting the best of both (the scum cutting ability of the vinegar and the dirt transporting ability of the soap), you’ll be getting the worst of something entirely new. The vinegar “unsaponifies” the soap, by which I mean that the vinegar takes the soap and reduces it back out to its original oils. So you end up with an oily, curdled, whitish mess. And this would be all over whatever it was you were trying to clean – your laundry or counters or dishes or whatever.
Check out this picture of Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint Castile soap mixed directly with distilled white vinegar:
It doesn’t matter what else is in the solution, or in what order you combine them. If you end up with the soap and the vinegar in the same container, this reaction will occur.
The mom in me has to point out that if you have kids who wonder about the purpose of science class in “the real world”, you can show them this little reaction. Of course, drinking milk and orange juice at the same time will also point out why you should know your acids from your bases.
So, for cleaning, there is a better way. Use the soap to clean and the vinegar as a rinse agent.
One common complaint with using the castile soap, especially on hard or shiny surfaces is that it leaves a film behind. This film is caused by the soap reacting with minerals in the water. It is not actually soap itself left behind, but rather certain salts. When this builds up on sinks and tubs, we call this soap scum. Vinegar is a great way to cut this. So after you’ve handwashed your dishes with castile soap and rinsed them, dip them in a sink of vinegar water. Or after you’ve wiped down the sinks and tubs with soapy water, rinse, and then spray with a vinegar solution (about 1 cup vinegar/quart water).
I’ll give more time to windows later (one of the things I actually really enjoy cleaning), but briefly, for dirty exterior windows, spray them with my castile soap solution, wipe them with a chamois, then spray them with vinegar and squeegee. Works great! Better than Windex.
Also, on the hair, if you do not have our Citrus Hair Rinse, but just want to use vinegar or lemon juice, rinse the soap out of your hair first. Then apply the vinegar or lemon juice.
So Dr. Bronner’s Castile soap and vinegar are a fabulous one, two punch. One after the other. Not at the same time.
As a sidenote: This issue does not apply to combining Sal Suds with vinegar. Sal Suds, as a synthetic detergent, has a completely different chemical makeup and does not react with the vinegar in the same way. Vinegar would even add more degreasing power to the mixture.

Thank you for clarifying and as usual, great article!
Good to know. Thanks!
I learned this the hard way last week when I wanted to use both vinegar and Dr. Bronners on my hair together!!
Hence my post… http://oilstories.wordpress.com/2010/11/11/piss-and-vinegar-at-3-am/
Thanks! I was just about to do this, having read it online.
Well that explains a lot! I just tried an online recipe for dishwasher liquid which recommends castile soap, water & vinegar. Yuck! It looked just like your picture. There are so many online recipes which use them both too – I guess people haven’t really tried them or understood the science of the situation. Thank you so much for explaining this properly! It will save me so much time
Thanks for writing this article to clarify the interesting facts to us. I love your castile soap.
This post should come first result on google.
Because there are so many online recipes telling you to mix castile soap with vinegar. I guess they never tried that and only copy the information from somewhere else.
Mix vinegar and castile soap, and you destroy the soap.
This is the truth. You cannot use both at same time. Period.
Basically by using castile soap you have a pH 10. You can clean everything except your hair (it will damage your hair, because the hair requires acid conditions). Washing it with vinegar is good however. Do all shampoos with it. You will have to mix the vinegar with a synthetic and mild detergent such as decyl glucoside, or for something natural, shikakai or soap nuts (do very little foam)
Thanks for the info! Are there any other ingredients you see people suggesting you mix with castile soap that shouldn’t be?
Glad this post was so helpful!
@Cameo – Anything with an acidic pH is likely to do this. Other than that, I am not aware of any other types of common natural cleaning materials that would be problematic when mixed with the castile soap.
All the best,
Lisa
Can you recommend a homemade solution using Dr. Bronners liquid soap to use in an automatic dishwasher? I just tried a recipe I found online and got the result above which is how I ended up at this site
@ Christine – I haven’t come across a good one yet. It’s something my brothers have been working on for some time. I assure you, when we have it figured out, I will share it with you all! ~Lisa
Lisa,
Thank-you so much for this article. I have been searching websites for days wondering what I did wrong. I have really thick hair and thought the residue was just from my texture. I will try using the ACV and DB in seperate containers, and let you know the result.
Mellisa
I found this searching for an answer to my question. Can you mix the Soaps with Sal Suds? It seems for a lot of household cleaning you recommend either or (or vinegar) but I want to use both on dishes and laundry, for instance, but I just wanted to know if it would work as well.
This is great Lisa! I have a page on FB titled “Recipes for Natural Living” and we always talk about Bronner’s. I’m definitely going to share this with them.
I also appreciate you mentioning the “scum” because I make my own shampoo w/ your plain Castille and feel like I tend to have a film on my hair afterwards. It makes sense that it could be reacting to the minerals in the water because some people agree with me and others don’t have the same problem. I’m going to try the vinegar rinse after I wash my shampoo out to see if that helps.
Thanks so much for a great article and for great soap!
@Everyone – Glad this is helping! Thanks for mentioning me, Brandy!
@Gina – You can mix the Sal Suds and the castile soaps. There would be no reaction between them. You might not get any different/better results, though, than with using them individually. If it is the scent of the castile soaps that you are looking for, you could use pure essential oils added to the Sal Suds. I do that with my mop bucket and sometimes with my spray bottle of Sal Suds. You still wouldn’t want to add vinegar to any combination that contains the castile soap. Hope this helps!
Lisa
Which is better to use on tile floors, Sal Suds or vinegar water? Also, if I use Sal Suds on my floors, must I rinse afterwards? Can I use a little borax in with Sal Suds to clean floors?
@ Gina – The Sal Suds definitely cleans better, but if you have a tile floor that doesn’t get much use (like a spare bathroom, or something), then the vinegar water would probably be fine. Both are fine options. The difference is that vinegar cuts grease and dissolves mineral deposits. Sal Suds attaches to dirt and bonds it to the water to be lifted away. I am not a fan of borax because of its toxicity, and I don’t think it would improve your floor cleaning solution. If you use Sal Suds, you do not need to rinse afterwards, so long as you don’t see bubbles left on the floor. It is a case of not using too much Sal Suds. I use about 1/2 tsp. in my mopping bucket. If you do find that you have leftover bubbles, do the vinegar rinse: 1 c. vinegar in your mop water. I usually add my favorite essential oil (right now it’s sweet orange), if I do the vinegar water.
Hope that helps! ~Lisa
Finally! Someone who actually knows something! I hate trying all these recipes that I find that don’t work because someone thought the combination sounded good rather than actually knowing the science behind it. Thank-you for your very educating article. I have a better idea of things to look for now.
I am new to the Dr. B’s soaps and am looking forward to using them. Our house has a lot of wood floor. Can I use the castile soap on it without having to rinse it after? I was planning on making a foaming hand soap mix in our dispenser for our family to use when handwashing but does it really leave a film in the sink? I am not sure I want to try it then if it does. Thanks.
@ Joy – Regarding rinsing after using the castile soap on your floors, it all depends on the hardness of your water, and what the floor looks like after you mop. If you don’t have hard water, then there is a much smaller chance of having any residue on the floor. Also, if you don’t notice any residue on the floor, then don’t bother rinsing. Using the Sal Suds cleaner avoids this problem all-together. It doesn’t leave a residue in hard or soft water. You can check out my post about mopping with it here: http://lisa.drbronner.com/?p=299.
I have a couple foaming hand soaps going, and I don’t notice a particular build up because of them.
Let me know if you have any further questions.
All the best,
Lisa
Oh thank you for this information so much! Chemistry class was years ago and with all these recipes online it seems that a lot of other folks forgot about it, too. This “one-two punch” actually simplifies things for me as I don’t have to have multiple bottles of stuff for different things – I can just have this combo for just about everything.
Hi, I got a bottle of Castile soap from a friend yesterday, and I became so curious after having red everything on the bottle. Therefor I have been reading quite a lot about your soap and family today. I live in Norway, the vinegar we buy can be 35%, 7%, when you recommend the doses, what kind of vinegar are you referring to? Thank you for sharing many interesting issues. Light and joy from Rosanna (Oslo)
@ Rosanna – Great question! I hadn’t thought of the differences. The vinegar I’m using is 5% acidity. If you have one that’s stronger, dilute it more. So, if you’re using a 7% vinegar, use half the amount of vinegar. If you’re using the 35%, use 1/7th the amount of vinegar – or about 2 Tbsp. for every cup I recommend.
All the best,
Lisa
Take a look at this recipe:
3 cups water
1 tbsp liquid castile soap (I used unscented Dr. Bronner’s)
1 cup vinegar
1 quart squirt bottle or similar
When I tried this the first time, I mixed everything quickly and used cold water, and the soap curdled instantly. Then I tried GENTLY mixing the soap with HOT tap water FIRST, and then SLOWLY added the vinegar. The soap didn’t curdle; rather, it produced a nice, homogenous milky liquid. (Try it!)
My question for you chemistry types (and castile soap experts) is this: is the soap still effective in this solution? In other words, if I manage to mix these ingredients together without curdling, do I still retain the beneficial effects of both?
@ Jen – I really hate to be the killjoy here, but this still doesn’t work. It doesn’t work in theory, and I tried it, and it doesn’t work in practice. I found, like you, that the hot water did eliminate the curdled-ness, and I had the smooth, milky mixture. So I tried to see how effective it was. First I just put some on my hand to try to lather up some bubbles – no go. Then I rinsed that off my hands, and my hands were still oily. I had to wash them with regular soap to get them clean. (This is because the oils are leftover after the vinegars splits the soap molecules back apart.) Then I put some canola oil on my hand to see what the solution would do, and it had no impact whatsoever at getting the oil off my hands. Castile soap and vinegar can’t be combined.
On the plus side, I am so glad that people are giving safer cleaning solutions a try and figuring this all out. Don’t be discouraged! Keep on going!
~Lisa
You are ABSOLUTELY RIGHT. I was worried about my little concoction because your explanation made so much sense. When I checked on it tonight, the solution was no longer milky–it had cleared; and when I shook it up, there were NO suds. The vinegar completely neutralized the soap. I am now a believer in the ‘one-two punch’ method! It is more wiping, but it’s so much more fun to clean when I understand the science!
Interesting cause I also took chemistry. But I’ve never had a problem with film or effectiveness when mixing the two, Lindsay
Hey Lindsay! Thanks for weighing in on this. Would you be up for sharing your method/recipe? If there’s a way around this, it would be great to know.
All the best,
Lisa
Thank you for this post! I have been racking my brain to figure this out. I made my own Castile soap from 100% olive oil and I have been really frustrated by the vinegar issue.
Hi Lisa. Thanks for posting this. You are absolutely correct about this and there are far too many people posting homemade concoctions on the web that don’t realize this. For laundry, I shred 1 bar of Dr. Bronner’s soap with a cheese grater and mix the powder with 1 cup of Borax and 1 cup of washing soda. I use 1-2 Tbs. per load at the laundromat with front loading HE washers. A trick is to sprinkle the powder in the tray while the water is flowing into the machine for the wash cycle. Otherwise, the powder can clump up in the tray and not flow down to the basin. Then, I add a fair amount of vinegar to the softener compartment AFTER the rinse cycle has started. I don’t want any disturbing my wash cycle.
For washing dishes I’m going to try dilute Sal Suds with a little vinegar.
I came across an automatic dishwasher recipe that combines Borax, washing soda, citric acid, and coarse salt. This seems to have the same problem of combining a base and an acid. Now, it’s added as a powder, so maybe the exothermic reaction of the acid and the base helps scour dried food off of the dishes. However, once it’s all dissolved and mixed, it seems as though the remaining solution is just a salty, slightly basic buffer. I guess a salty buffer in hot water might actually work in combination with the high powered spray of a dishwasher. I may just try 1:1 Borax:washing soda with vinegar as a rinse agent on the highest dispenser amount. Do you have any thoughts? I’ll let you know how it works.
@Michael – I think your dishwasher ratio is definitely worth trying out. Everything takes experimentation. You might want to mix this up and add a little hot water in a bowl to see what happens. You can also use it to wash a few dishes by hands (really oily ones) to see what happens before you load up your dishwasher. I’ll give it a shot as well. Let me know how yours turns out!
All the best,
Lisa
hi lisa
thank you for this post! this is just what I am looking for. I am planning to buy dr. bronner’s unscented baby mild soap to be used as baby wash / shampoo for my 2 yrs old. my question, can I use dr B’s baby mild for handwash, produce wash, floor cleaner just like that without leaving the film residue like you mentioned above? by the way should I go for lavender version instead of the unscented one for all the uses I describe above? regarding sal suds, r they better or the same as dr B’s?
Hi Anny – The castile soap is great for the body (handwashing or shower, etc.) and works very well around the house (mopping, sinks/tubs, etc.), but I don’t recommend it on produce. You could use the lavender if you prefer for body washing or cleaning the house. The scent is a matter of personal preference. Sal Suds has a slight advantage for around the house. It is a detergent instead of a soap, which means it is slightly more powerful, more clean rinsing, and more concentrated. You will need less Sal Suds than castile soap. It works well as a produce wash as well – add 1 drop to a bowl of water and dunk the produce in the bowl. A quick rinse and you’re good to go.
Let me know if you have further questions!
All the best,
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for replying. I read that you can wash your produce with only vinegar. What is your thought on it? Thx
Hi Anny – Vinegar definitely cuts grease and is non-toxic. It is an acid, though, and would probably affect the taste of the produce. It also doesn’t have the dirt-transporting ability of a soap or detergent. Bottom line – it won’t hurt it, but might not do as good a job as Sal Suds or another produce wash.
Take care!
Lisa
I’m new to the whole “homemade cleaning” revolution that seems to be getting bigger and bigger. I started using a vinegar/water mixture then saw a recipe to add the castile soap. After reading this I’m guessing that was a bad idea. So what would be the best recipe for cleaning? I have marble in the bathroom so I can not use vinegar. Would it be best to just use soap and water for all of my general cleaning? I have the Dr. Bonner’s baby soap and plan to start using on my kids and self for bathing and for washing hands; what ratio would you suggest for a soap dispenser?
Hi Chrissy! Yes, adding soap to that solution will not help matters. Since marble does not like acid, soap and water is perfect. Check out my Castile Spray: http://lisa.drbronner.com/?p=64. The Sal Suds spray would also be a good option: http://lisa.drbronner.com/?p=180.
For a foaming pump dispenser, dilute it at a ratio of 1:3. Do not use the castile in a regular pump dispenser.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Lisa
Are all juices acid? what about grape, cherry, blueberry, pomegranite, etc? My son has been having juice at breakfast every day. Real 100% juice, not juice cocktails.
Milk is not a base. It has a PH of ~ 6.4 to 6.8. Baking soda has a PH of ~ 9 when mixed with vinegar (ph of ~2.4) you get a chemical reaction that can help to unclog a clogged drain and even clean a toilet. Lemon has a ph of ~ 2-3, when mixed with Milk per recipe can create a substitute for buttermilk. Dawn dish washing detergent has a ph of 9, when mixed with hot vinegar, it creates a very good cleaner. Point being, basing your answer on a simple base vs acid approach doesn’t work. I understand you have a personal and vested interest in Dr. Bronner’s soap, and I respect that. I like and do use your products. If Dr. Bronner’s and Vinegar do not mix, I will respect your word, but not based on your acid and base theory.
Acid-base theory IS the basis for this observation. The chemical reaction that occurs when you mix vinegar (acid) and baking soda (base) is the same sort of reaction that occurs when you mix vinegar with castile soap (also a base). As you said, this chemical reaction is great for unclogging drains, but this is a short-term application. The reaction eventually runs its course once the acid and base have finished neutralized each other.
Lisa is not saying that it is impossible to mix castile soap with vinegar. What she is saying is that castile soap and vinegar will neutralize each other, so the cleaning properties of each will be less effective if they are combined in the same bottle. Try the one-two punch that Lisa described: spray your counter with soap solution first, then 50:50 vinegar solution. If you do this, you can see that the vinegar immediately neutralizes the soap suds on your countertop. You can imagine why you would not want this to happen inside the bottle, before you have a chance to actually clean anything!
Hi June & Jen- Sounds like you both know your stuff! Yep, milk is a very slight acid (around 6.7), and when its pH is lowered by a stronger acid such as orange juice or vinegar or lemon juice below 4.6, it begins to coagulate, producing sour milk, and as you said, a great substitute for buttermilk. Not so great if this reaction is happening in the stomach.
Acid/base reactions can definitely work to our advantage. The vinegar and baking soda foam is one way to get kids interested in house cleaning because it’s kind of neat, and it does work great on drains: http://lisa.drbronner.com/?p=221. It also makes a great “Soft Scrub” alternative, especially when mixed with a bit of Sal Suds. I like the toilet cleaning idea. I’ll give that one a try.
The reason behind the interaction between vinegar and castile soap is more complicated than that one is a acid and one is a base. Case in point – detergents such as Dawn and Sal Suds, which are also alkaline, do not react with vinegar. Detergents and soaps have very different chemical compositions. The soap molecule is more susceptible to being split apart by the acid. Here’s the chemistry:
The molecular composition of soap is R-(CH2)n-COOK. The composition of vinegar (acetic acid) is CH#-COOH. When blended together, although acetic acid is not too strong of an acid, the ending H (hydrogen) from the acid displaces some of the K (potassium) from the soap. The soap becomes R-(CH2)n-COOH. This is a fatty acid, not soluble in water, not a soap anymore and it does not cleanse or foam. Other acids, such as lemon juice, would also have this H available to knock the K off the soap molecule. I hope that helps clear things up.
Please let me know if I can address other questions.
All the best,
Lisa
I tried the recipe, it did indeed curdle, but I put it in the dishwasher anyway and it seemed to really work. The glasses really sparkled. Any explanation?
Thanks
Hi Robin – Which recipe did you try? I’ll take a look!
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
I’m just getting into castile soaps for natural cleaning. I had just made some castile dish soap at the same time my dishwasher broke–which means I’ve had ample opportunity to experiment with dishwashing. After definitely noticing residue on all the glassware without the vinegar rinse, this morning, my husband and I attempted to do a vinegar rinse and didn’t notice a huge difference. However, I wasn’t sure what your process looks like, and wondered if you could give me a specific guideline to follow. We filled up one sink with water and castile soap, and filled up the other side of the sink with about 3 cups of vinegar and water. After washing in the castile, we would dunk it in the vinegar solution and set out to dry. Should we have rinsed in between steps, or after steps? Also, what ratio of vinegar to water do you suggest? Thanks for any guidance you have on this issue!
Help! I’m getting “whitish” spots on my darks. I’m using Dr. Bronner’s Eucalyptus with baking soda in the wash cycle and vinegar in the rinse. I didn’t notice it with my first bottle of Eucalyptus, then tried the lemon and that’s when the spots starting appearing. I’ve switched back to the Eucalyptus, but still have spots. They are ranging in size from a quarter to fist size. If I rub on them they will disappear, but there is a still a little residue. I’ve tried an extra rinse, but nothing seems to help. I tried the hard water test and the water was so murky you couldn’t see through it. I live in Texas,
I hope you can help with a suggestion. I’m using 1/3 of a cup of the liquid soap.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Jeanne S.
I found this out the hard way when making my own shower cleaner. The recipe called for Dawn and I thought I’d be greener and use my castile soap with hot vinegar. UGH, I will forever remember the offending smell it produced. YUCKO!
Hi Amy – I’m glad you turned your dishwasher-less-ness into a good green opportunity. I spent several days trying to recreate the film you describe, and you’re definitely not the first to mention this. However, to my great surprise, I couldn’t get the film. So let me list what I was doing, and we’ll compare techniques:
I filled one side of my sink with hot water and about 1/4 cup of castile soap (peppermint). I had a lot of pots, glasses, plastic containers, and dishes. After washing them, I rinsed with the faucet in the other side of my sink At this point I expected to see some film, but I didn’t. Then I dried the dishes by hand. Everything turned out film-free.
Try rinsing the dishes first, and when you see the film, use a spray bottle with a 50% vinegar solution sprayed over the dishes (this will cut down on the amount of vinegar used). You could also put a 50% vinegar solution in the sink, if you really had a lot of dishes. However, do rinse off the soap first so that you’re not running into the problem of the soap and vinegar combo. The vinegar is meant to cut the residue left by hard water minerals – not to rinse away the soap. Please let me know if this makes any difference.
I thought about trying other people’s water, but I’d have to travel outside of my water district. But going on a trip just to wash dishes seemed a little odd, and tough to justify the travel expense.
Hi Jeanne – I would cut out the baking soda. Unless your laundry really needs deodorizing or whitening, you can probably do without it. The vinegar helps cut down the residue of the hard water, but if it’s already being consumed by reacting with the vinegar, then there may not be any left to address the mineral residue. Also, up your vinegar to 1/2 c. and use no more than 1/3 c. of castile soap for each large load. Lastly, make sure you’re adding to vinegar to the last rinse cycle so that it is not mixing directly with the soap.
Let m e know how it’s coming
Hi Meghan – You’re not alone. It’s a common scenario!
All the best,
Lisa,
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for the response. The method I tried was to fill one sink with about 1-2 tbsp of the unscented castile soap (with a few essential oils) and hot water, and to fill the other half with about 1-2 cups of vinegar and hot water. I’d wash first in the castile and then rinse, then I would put the rinsed dish into the vinegar sink. I’d rinse again, and then set them out to dry. I think our water must be quite hard, because I was only using about 1-2 tbsp of castile soap (unscented), and the whole sink would be milky white. Maybe air drying has something to do with it too?
Anyway, since then I’ve switched to Sal Suds (which is indeed my new favorite cleaner) and they work like a charm!
Hi Lisa
I am a big fan of Dr. B but I have a question
If your soap reacts with hard water and produces certain salts how could it clean?
Wouldn’t it immediately react with hard water and lose its cleaning property?
For example how would it clean your hand? One would
Think it can’t since it will quickly turn in to a salt and that salt is only removed by an acidic agent like vinegar
Also we never use venigar on our hands so does this mean the salts remain
On our hand ?
I am sure i ammissing something Can you explain this?
Hi Amy – There really isn’t anything quite like the Sal Suds. (not that I’m biased, but really) I think you might be right about the air drying. I didn’t try that. It makes sense, though. Glad you found the Sal Suds, though.
Hi Roya – There aren’t enough minerals in most water to react with all of the soap, so there’s still a lot of cleaning power leftover in the suds. However, this is very much a matter of how much soap, how much water, and how hard the water. One drop of soap in one gallon of really hard water – you’ll probably lose all the cleaning ability of the soap. But a squirt of soap on a wet washcloth, and there will be plenty of leftover soap to clean.
Also, regarding residue on your skin, if you dry your hands and body, this really isn’t an issue. The minerals which are formed from the reaction of the soap with hard water remain suspended in the water. When the water dries on, or really evaporates from, a surface, the minerals are left behind. However, since we usually dry ourselves after washing, you wouldn’t notice this residue. Furthermore, the residue is really only visible on shiny surfaces, which excludes skin anyways.
You can always test the cleaning power of the soap by putting some sort of oil on your hand (I’m thinking olive), and then washing with the soap. With such an intentionally dirty hand, it will take more soap than normal, but the cleaning power of the soap will be magnified.
Hope this helps! Let me know if you have further questions.
All the best,
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thanks. I was sure I was missing something:)
2 more question.
1-When we dilute the soap, for example 1 part soap / 3 parts water in a foam pump, only some of the soap reacts with the minerals (depending on the mineral amount in the hard water) and the rest remains as soap. Right?
2- If we rinse our hair really well after using the soap as shampoo with hard water, do we still need Vinegar or Lemon rinse (acidic rinse) to remove the minerals? Sounds like we really don’t need to since the minerals are suspended in water which can be removed by water.
Thanks
Roya
I wish I read this post 36 hours ago! I recently washed my elbow pads and wrist guards in a solution of water, vinegar and Castile soap. Not only did it leave an oily film, but it made my skin burn and left a rash! Does anyone have any thoughts on how I can clean them now? Should I rinse in vinegar and water to get the film off?
Hi Beth – As you can feel, your pads are coated in oil. So you need some sort of surfactant to get it off – either a soap or detergent. You can use the castile soap by itself to wash them in water. After you’ve rinsed them, if you have hard water deposits, you could then run them through a vinegar solution. If you happen to have any Dr. Bronner’s Sal Suds, that would work great, and you wouldn’t need the vinegar rinse.
All the best,
Lisa
Hi Roya – Yes, you have that right. There will still be plenty of soap leftover, even after a very small amount reacts with the hard water. Regarding rinsing your hair, there are a couple of different factors here. The main purpose behind using a vinegar or acidic rinse has to do with the pH of the soap, rather than the mineral precipitates. The alkalinity of the soap makes the follicles on our hair stand out from the strands. It needs to be balanced by an acidic pH to get the hair smooth again. The Dr. Bronner’s Hair Rinse is specifically pH balanced for the Dr. Bronner’s soaps, but you can also experiment with vinegar or lemon juice on your own to find what works for your hair type. There isn’t so much of a mineral deposit problem with our skin or hair. You really can only notice that on shiny surfaces. On bathroom surfaces, it is important to avoid scum by rinsing any suds down the drain. However, because even “plain” tap water has dissolved minerals in it, you will always notice water spots and such on shiny surfaces unless you wipe them down after each use. This is why I keep a squeegee in my shower to clear the glass door because glass is the most unforgiving with mineral deposits. It shows everything.
Let me know if I can be of further help!
All the best,
Lisa
Could you not also spray your shower down with 50:50 vinegar/water? Just wondering if you’ve tried it.
Hi Jen – Vinegar does help dissolve minerals/soap scum. However, unless you rinse the vinegar down, the minerals will still be left behind once the vinegar dries. Also, take care with the surfaces on which you’re using vinegar – it is an acid, and having it sit on surfaces regularly may cause some etching. So, definitely rinse it if you go this route. It is a good way to tackle soap scum build up. Spray on the vinegar solution, and let it sit about 5-10 minutes, but not until it dries. Then rinse it down with hot water. For extra shine, dry the surfaces thoroughly.
All the best,
Lisa
What about this?
http://newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem99/chem99271.htm
Question:
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My mom always cleans her windows with a solution of mostly water, and equal parts ammonia and vinegar. Since both are of equal concnecentration and of equal strengths, I claim she is just making more water. Yet she swears by this method.. So what actually does the cleaning?
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I think you must be thinking “OK, ammonia is a basic solution, and vinegar is acidic. So if I mix equal volumes of equal concentrations of acid and base together, I’ll just have water because the acid neutralizes the base.” Eh? But this is incorrect for several reasons. (1) to neutralize a strong acid with a strong base, you must combine equal numbers of moles of acid and moles of base. Thus, just because you use equal volumes of the two substances doesn’t mean that you’ll end up at pH=7; they could be in different concentrations in the two solutions. (2) Acetic acid is a weak acid and ammonia is a weak base. Therefore, mixing together equal amounts of these two substances will result in a solution with a pH which is not 7, i.e., you won’t have a neutral solution. (3) When you neutralize an acid with a base, one does not only end up with water. Consider the reaction of HCL with NaOH; you get H2O and NaCl(aq), which is in the form of Na+(aq) and Cl-(aq). In your mom’s economical and effective homemade window cleaner, there’s other stuff floating around than protons (H3O+) or hydroxide (OH-). There’s going to be a mixture of acetic acid and acetate (both from the vinegar) as well as other things, and NH3 and NH4+ (from the ammonia). What you’ve basically got is a buffer solution with a lot of ions floating around (which will help dissolve charged dust particles) and organic compounds (which will help dissolve organic muck). OK? Hope this helps
- topper
Doesn’t that mean that some variations on these cleaning mixtures might work? IDK. Any Chemists who can explain this better. I would like to know if I should scrap all my acid/base mix cleaners or just the ones with Castile Soap.
Thanks, I had the problem yesterday and was amazed (got the recipy from internet), now I understand.
I noticed the ingredients of your soap actually contains citric acid so this appears to conflict with your theory all acids will produce this same effect?
Regarding the citric acid, each batch of soap is individually tested to see if there is any unreacted sodium or potassium hydroxide leftover. Then, citric acid is added at a key point in the process and only in the amount needed to react with and thereby nullify the hydroxide. There would be no leftover citric acid in the soap, and it is added in such a way so as not to un-saponify the soap itself. Hope that helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lisa
Hello Lisa,
I followed a recipe with castile soap, vinegar, water and a bit of lemon juice for the dishwasher. As soon as I had added the vinegar I knew something was wrong as it went white and curdled, just like your picture. Nevertheless I proceeded to try it in the dishwasher. It was ok, except for water spots on everything. I have since tried filling up the rinse aid compartment with white vinegar which seems to have worked.
Unfortunately though, after a few weeks of having this concoction, now it looks worse, and the soap didn’t seem to work in the dishwasher.
I was wondering whether you had a recipe yet for dishwashers?
Otherwise, I was considering experimenting with just a solution of castile soap and water and keeping the vinegar in the rinse aid compartment for its release in its own time in the dishwasher cycle.
Any information on what concentrations to use, water:soap?
Many Thanks for all your info!
Hi Lisa,
I love using Sal Suds for so many things including laundry and dishes. However I have flooded my kitchen with suds when using Sal suds in the the dishwasher. Is there a trick or secret ingredient to add that will reduce the foam? or should I forget about using Sal Suds in the automatic dish washer?
Deborah
Hi Anna & Deborah – Dishwashers are an entirely different cleaning process than pretty much everything else. Both soaps (such as Dr. Bronner’s castile) and many detergents (such as Sal Suds) contain mainly surfactants, which clean by bonding both to grease and to water at the same time. They also are what produce the bubbles. In dishwashers, bubbles are problematic. Not only can the dishwasher not contain them, and often you’ll find them oozing out the side, but without the mechanical scrubbing action of a human hand holding a brush or cloth, they don’t work all that well. Instead, dishwashers need things that will loosen and dissolve debris, so they turn to things like phosphates (very effective but also polluting) and enzymes (which eat away at food particles). I have not yet found a good recipe for the dishwasher. In buying products, I look for ones that do not contain phosphates. I also keep it well away from my kids – top shelf in the pantry – because they are one of the most harmful household products.
If anyone wants to propose a homemade solution, I’d love to hear it. You can post it here, or email me at lisa@drbronner.com.
All the best,
Lisa
I thought Marci had a good point.
I have been using a recipe from John Robbins book
1 cup vinegar
1 cup water
1/4 tsp bronners
Yes, it gets cloudy/curdly. But, it also seems to clean great. (I’ve got not scientific explanation for why – I took chemistry and got an A, but was not a “natural” at the subject) I’ve been using it for about a year and have been very satisfied with the results. Granted, it has very little soap in it, but it seems just enough to give the vinegar a little lift (I also use straight vinegar/water for some applications – like windows – and it seems less effective for countertops). I especially like that the recipes I use are non-toxic, and my preschooler can “help” clean without me worrying.
Maybe Marci’s explanation is why it seems to work so well?
Is it possible to add a teaspoon or two of alcohol to the water/castille/essential oil spray? I understand tea tree and lavender are natural antiseptics, but would alcohol give it a bit more cleaning oomph? Chemistry has never been my strong suit, so the idea of adding alcohol is just me trying to get things a bit cleaner. Basically, I want things super clean AND green but I also love the smell of lavender, etc.
Hi Anna – I really don’t want to make a ruckus here. I know that you said that it still works for you in your cleaning, but I just tried this mixture. When I put my hand in this solution, it came out quite oily. The vinegar/water solution without the soap would definitely clean surfaces – and if that’s all you have, it will take you pretty far. However, I really don’t think adding the soap is doing you any favors, even though it may seem otherwise.
Hi Danielle – Alcohol is a good germ killer (and is the active ingredient in Dr. Bronner’s hand sanitizer). However, it is not a surfactant, which means although it would kill germs, it would not bond with dirt and water to carry it off of surfaces. I don’t know about the effects of combining alcohol with castile soap. I will look into that and get back to you.
All the best,
Lisa
I am mystified. I’m not trying to cause a ruckus, either, but my mixture is not oily at all. With 1/4 *teaspoon* of soap to 2 cups of vinegar & water – I don’t know how it could be *really* oily.
So…any suggestions WHAT can be done (if anything) with an already made concoction comprised of the soap and the vinegar? The recipe for automatic dishwasher liquid soap I followed was:
2 cups of vegetable-based castile soap (such as Vermont Soap Organics or Dr. Bronner’s)
½ cup of water
½ cup of white vinegar
1 teaspoon of fresh lemon juice
3 drops of your favorite essential oil
The dishes, even with a vinegar rinse, are COVERED in residue. I’d hate to just throw it all away, since I doubled the recipe, and the 4c of the soap is in there…
Hi Jo – I am so sorry. I can’t think of anything useful to do with this. You might not even want to dump this down your drain because there’s a lot of free oils in there now. It might be hard to wash all that down and your drain might get coated. Do you have an empty field you can pour it in?
This is such a pervasive misconception! The vinegar and castile soap are so great and natural and safe – separately. I fear people try this and then get frustrated with the whole “green” thing. It’s giving “green” a bad name.
Hang in there,
Lisa
I’ll wait to hear back on the alcohol question as well. Thanks for all the information!
I suggest using dr. bronners sals suds instead of castille. Works way better.
I am new to this green cleaning as well. I actually started because I have 2 Maltese doggies. One is having a very difficult time with allergies or yeast or air pollutants. I am revamping everything I’m doing for him to get him off prescription meds. I am seeing big improvements.
My biggest concern is cleaning my floors. I have been using vinegar and water. But that makes the floors very dull. Someone suggested spraying pure Club Soda on floors after the vinegar mop and they will be shiny and non toxic. That works great, to my surprise.
My dilema is that sometimes I’m cleaning up pee, poo or vomit (gross, I know, but comes with the territory!) or their raw food diet and I feel like the vinegar and water, even with added tea tree or theives oil, is just not cleaning up well enough. Is the Sal Suds completely safe to use around my little guys if I follow the dilutions mentioned?
I’ve been using Dr. Brommer’s as “shampoo” and then rinsing with diluted vinegar chamomile “conditioner” for a few months now but two days ago I guess I was rushing in the shower and maybe didn’t rinse well enough before using the vinegar b/c my hair was rough, tangly and greasy through the next day and when I showered that evening in an attempt to get it thoroughly clean – I “shampooed” and “conditioned” and thought I was rinsing well. Well….still not back to normal. I read this last night and tried this morning to just rinse with a stronger vinegar rinse hoping this would get it out, but it hasn’t. It was somewhat better, I was able to comb through it better, but it’s still not right. What should I do to get the build up out?
Hi Lisa, I’m so glad I found this as I’ve been working on making some green cleaners for my house. My question is: many recipes I see have liquid dish soap or (as a substitute) liquid castile soap. Is castile soap really a substitute for dish soap? Particularly as a 1:1 substitute?
Hi Lisa!
I LOVE Dr.Bronner’s products. My husband and I use the bar soaps, liquid soaps and Sal Suds.
I noticed a post asking about using Castile soap in the dishwasher. Didn’t work for us.
I thought I would share our concoction which has worked fabulously (please note that we do rinse our items a little before putting them in the dishwasher). It’s a little extra effort with things in separate containers but we keep them all easily accessible on our counter so it’s quick and it’s worth it to us the replace commercial dish washing detergent and seemingly less effective natural ones!
Powder:
1 part NATURAL oxygen powder bleach
1part washing soda
Lemishine Powder or Citric Acid (* kept separate from the other ingredients or annoying clumping occurs!)
Liquid:
Sal Suds
DIRECTIONS:
2 tsp of washing soda/oxygen bleach mixture
1 tsp of Lemishine powder or citric acid
1/4 tsp Sal Suds
( all in dispenser )
If things are rather greasy I’ll put a small glass bowl upright on the top rack and pour about a TBSP of a vinegar pre-rinse I make with about
1 1/2 cups vinegar with a drop or two of Sal Suds
We like to use Lemishine Rinse agent for the rinse cycle in the same small bowl on the top rack (bc our dispenser leaks) but I have read many like just vinegar .
Thanks so much for the reply…bummer it cannot be used for anything else!
Hi Alissa – You are right on. The Sal Suds does not have this same problem when mxed with vinegar.
Hi Terri – The Sal Suds would be a great option to boost the cleanign power of the vinegar . It is a disinfectant, but is non-toxic, and even if you were to leave residue on the floor accidentally, it would not harm your dogs.
Hi Em – Chemically speaking, when the rinse combined with the soap on your hair, the soap returned to its original oils, so your hair became coated with oils. This happened to me recently, although I did it on purpose when I tried a coconut oil deep treatment and used way too much coconut oil. After three washings with soap, i fianlly did a washing with Sal Suds to get the oil out. Vinegar will not help because it will not bond with the oils . You need a surfactant (i.e. soap or detergent) to grab hold of the oils.
Hi Tiffany – Every soap or “liquid dish soap” (which generally is a detergent) is different in its concetnration. So a one to one ratio is not universal.
Hi Faith – I’ll check out this recipe! Working on a dishwasher recipe is on my “to do” list.
Let me know if there are any other questions. I haven’t done the alcohol/castile soap experiment yet.
All the best,
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
Let me know if/when you do the alcohol experiment…and if you think it works!
Do you have a solution for if this mess clogs a pipe?
Hi – I found your post very interesting. So, what if you mix vinegar and washing soda together, then add Dr. Bronner castile soap? Does that change the reaction? Thanks!
Hi Danielle – If you’ve poured a vinegar/soap combo down your drain and it is clogged, it is oil that you’re dealing with. A surfactant would be the best thing because it would bond with the oil and with the water to carry it away. Sal Suds is one option, followed by a good dose of really hot (not boiling) water. If there is debris in the drain (I’m thinking hair), the oil is clinging to that as well, and it would be best to clear that out as well. I haven instructions at the end of this post about deodorizing a sink: http://lisa.drbronner.com/?p=221.
Hi Julie – If there is unreacted vinegar leftover from the reaction with washing soda, it will react with the soap. You can always try this out and see. Test the mixture afterwards to see if it leaves your hand oily.
(I will try the alcohol experiment when I’m home. I am currently on a cross country roadtrip, but will be back at the end of the month.)
All the best,
Lisa
Can you consume, like drink Dr.Bronners Peppermint Liquid Soap?
Hi Briana – No, please do not drink the soap. It is not toxic, but it might not sit well in the tummy. And who knows, you may even burp bubbles. (I shouldn’t mention that to my 6 year old. He’d think that’s cool.)
All the best,
Lisa
Hello Lisa – First let me thank you for your amazing products. My questions is, I was going to try the Sals Suds cleaner. How would this work in a foam dispensing bottle diluted with water? I wanted to start using it to wash dishes.
Hi Chris – I would think the Sal Suds would work well in a foaming pump dispenser. I haven’t tried it, but I don’t see any issues. Depending on the size of the container, maybe a tablespoon or two of Sal Suds in the water.
Let me know how it goes!
All the best,
Lisa
Oh, that reminds me! Is there some reason the regular castile soap shouldn’t work in a foam pump dispenser? Mine keep getting clogged!
http://www.ecokaren.com/2011/10/non-toxic-and-cheap-dishwasher-detergent/
I found this and tried it, then I found this post. It seemed to have worked, but I only made a 1/4 recipe (just in case). Maybe it will be helpful? I only had bottled lemon juice, but I figured it would be good enough. And I know it’s not “kitcheny” but I LOVE your Peppermint Castile soap so it is my go to for everything!
This blog was helpful on a side note because I use a spray bottle of well-diluted vinegar with a squirt of the peppermint Castile & water. I haven’t noticed an issue with the cleaning power but it makes me worry I haven’t been “cleaning” the table and counters as well as I thought! Thanks for the great info!
I want to buy the Dr. Bronner’s Citrus Liquid soap for making cleaning recipes. I’m confused by this whole acid issue. Would the citrus in the soap be acidic and stop the cleaning property? But then again, I would think they would have figured out a way to combine the two and have it still work. Should I buy a different kind for cleaning other than the citrus? Help!
Hi Cristina – Another friend of mine had also come across the same recipe. There isn’t enough lemon juice in it to nullify the castile soap fully, so you’re still getting cleaning power from the soap. The lemon juice, though, would still react with the soap. I use the peppermint in the kitchen, too. It does double-duty of washing dishes and counters, and giving me an oft-needed, middle of the day pick-me-up!
Hi Jessica – The Citrus Castile soap has essential oils (from orange, lemon, and lime) in it and not juice. Oils do not have a pH because they are not water soluble, and so they do not react with the soap. I absolutely love the Citrus soap for cleaning. I highly recommend it.
Please let me know if you have further questions!
All the best,
Lisa
Hi Lisa- I just have a quick question that you sort of answered right above my post but I want to make sure. Can I add pure Grapefruit essential oil to my Castile/Water spray bottle without the acid and base fiasco? I want to up the citrus smell on the Citrus Castile soap and add to my unscented Castile soap. Thanks!!
great leather moisturiser though!
Hi Suzanne – Yes, you can certainly add the essential oil. Only water soluble substances have pH, and since essential oils are, well, oils that don’t dissolve in water, they don’t have a pH.
Hi Wendy – What is it that you’re using as a leather moisturizer?
All the best,
Lisa
First, I have to say I’m impressed you’ve answered everyone’s questions! It’s really great that you are willing to read every comment, try out the recipes people are having problems with, and give thoughtful feedback.
I have a follow-up question about the ecokaren dishwasher detergent recipe (http://www.ecokaren.com/2011/10/non-toxic-and-cheap-dishwasher-detergent/). You mentioned that there isn’t enough lemon juice in it to fully nullify the castile soap… so is there any reason to include it at all? I found a recipe (I can’t seem to find it anymore) that recommended using a large quantity of vinegar with 1-2 tablespoons of baking soda, and my first thought was that you’d just be left with an acid (the baking soda would react completely). I’m no chemist, though, so maybe there is another reason to use these small quantities of an acid in a largely basic solution, or vice versa.
What will undo this concoction?? Wish I had seen this yesterday!!
Hi,
Doesn’t Sal Suds contain SLS? That is one of the ingredients we are told is harsh on skin, irritating… and EWG considers undesirable. Can you elaborate on the ingredients in the product so I know if it is something I would consider using? I have many other DB products because of their safety.
Thank you.
Hi there! I have jumped in with both feet, and am loving all the new natural things I’ve been researching! (Cleaners, makeup, facial cleansers, etc.) I just now saw the idea that I shouldn’t mix Castille with vinegar (and went “Eeeek!”, but I had already done it and have it in a spray bottle that I’ve been using for the past week. I actually had a BAR of Castille (Dr. Kirk’s) that I’d finely grated,and used Apple Cider Vinegar, Borax, Super Washing Soda, Tea Tree Oil and Orange Essential Oil, plus a few cups of water. There was never any clumping, etc. that I read about. It all blends nicely, but I don’t want to “clean” my counters, etc, if it may not actually be “cleaning!”
You thoughts/comments/ideas, please?? I appreciate your help very much!!
Thank you, Julie
Hi Laura – Here you give me a lovely compliment and I totally drop the ball. I am so sorry for my delay. I checked out that recipe, and yes, I agree with you. There is no point to adding the lemon juice. The solution will still clean because the lemon juice will react only with some of the castile soap. There will still be castile soap leftover to do some cleaning. But the lemon juice isn’t doing you any favors.
Some recipes combine vinegar and baking soda because they can produce a foam. I recommend it in deodorizing sinks and for scrubbing soap scum, so that may explain it in the recipe you have seen. The baking soda is still gritty after reacting with vinegar, so it can still be a good scrubber. If you find that recipe, let me know and I’ll take a look at it. (And get back to you sooner than three months later).
Hi Amy – You probably don’t have this question anymore, but there is nothing you can do to undo this reaction.
All the best,
Lisa
Hi Julie – Don’t worry about getting everything right at the first go. It’s definitely a learning process. Your cleaning solution may still be cleaning depending on the ratio of the ingredients. The apple cider vinegar might have not been enough to nullify the castile soap completely. HOwever, it’s not helping. One of them has to go. Also, do take care with using both borax and super washing soda. They are natural, effective, sustainable, and biodegradable, but both are fairly caustic. Be careful not to touch them or breathe them. (My unsolicited recommendation is to simplify this and just go with soap and water, or Sal Suds and water.)
Good luck! Let me know if I can answer other questions (and I’m usually more prompt).
All the best,
Lisa
Hi Jenn – Sal Suds does contain Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). I wrote about that here: http://lisa.drbronner.com/?p=197. People are usually concerned that it is carcinogenic, which it isn’t. It is, however, as you say, irritating because it is so drying. It shouldn’t be in bodycare products and yet it is ubiquitous. If you’re soaking your hands in Sal Suds a lot, you may find that your hands are dry. The product page at the Dr. Bronner’s website has a pretty thorough explanation of what else is in the Sal Suds: http://www.drbronner.com/DBMS/SSLI32/SalSudsLiquidCleaner.htm. Please let me know if I can answer further questions.
All the best,
Lisa
its great for moisturising & protecting leather though, such as couch
Hi Lisa! I was hoping to get your opinion on the following laundry soap recipe I found.
1 cup DB castile soap
1/2 cup table salt
1 1/2 cups washing soda
5 cups hot water
My hubby is leery of natural products, since all he knows are the manufactured big-name ones. What can you tell me about the chemistry of the final product? (He is an engineer and likes his empirical evidence!)
The recipe went on to recommend filling a Downy ball with vinegar to use as a fabric softener.
I like these ideas, but need some hard proof to convince Hubby to let go of his Tide and Downy!
Thanks!
Hello,
I am very happy to have found your blog. Thank you for all of the detailed information about green cleaning. I am a young owner of a house cleaning business. I am currently trying to replace all of the “traditional” cleaning products with eco-(and me) friendly products. Would you say using a homemade soft scrub with Dr.B’s in clients shower’s without a vinegar rinse over time would leave a build up? Would I be better of using the Sal Suds in the soft scrub instead of DR.B’s and adding vinegar to it? Would you say I would be better of doing a vinegar rinse each time regardless? I have seen many soft scrub recipes which add vegetable glycerin as a preservative, do you know if it really works in such a manner? Does Sal Subs have anti-bacterial properties like many of the other Dr.B’s soaps? I apologize for all the questions. I have to be as careful as possible while maintaining efficiency since I am dealing with others property. Trial and error is nearly not an option. Thank you in advance for any answers you may have.
Hi Jen – The Environmental Working Group (an excellent independent research organization) has published a very useful guide to comparing cleaning products. Perhaps your hubby would gain some insight from there. Here’s the analysis of Original Tide: http://www.ewg.org/guides/cleaners/1718-TideLiquidDetergentOriginal and Downy http://www.ewg.org/guides/cleaners/1752-DownyUltraLiquidFabricSoftenerFreeSensitive. Look around there to learn more than you wanted to know.
As far as your recipe goes, the castile soap is a surfactant that will bond the dirt and grime to the water molecules for easy rinsing. Salt is something I haven’t experimented with much, but according to research is a color brightener and cleaning booster. Washing soda is a laundry booster as well. The only change I would make is to swap out the washing soda for baking soda because washing soda is pretty intense and would wear down your clothes with frequent use. Save the washing soda for more occasional uses with extra dirty loads.
Hi Sofia – Using Dr. Bronner’s castile in a soft scrub would work very well. I’d make a paste with baking soda, a little salt, the castile soap and water. Scrub and rinse with hot water. The Sal Suds would be even more effective and maybe a little cheaper. With the SAl Suds, after you scrub, spray the surface with vinegar and watch the reaction. This would be a cleaning booster. Then rinse with hot water I haven’t heard of using glycerin as a preservative. When you make up solutions, make as much as you’d use up in a couple of weeks. Then you don’t have to worry about preserving it. Sal Suds is just as disinfecting as the castile soaps. You can’t go wrong with Sal Suds in cleaning your houses.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lisa
[...] 2013 update: I finally discovered why my dishwasher detergent recipe turned into a disaster! Castile soap should never be mixed with an acid like vinegar or lemon juice – the acid reduces… Hence my [...]
Yep I used the bad recipe too. Funny though the first time it seemed to work fine but the second time it just jelled up. So what can I do with the portion that has turned back to oil? Is there anything? I’d hate to waste it.
Do you have a good dish liquid recipe that works well? Is it possible to use another soap in a vinegar recipe besides Castille? Thank you
Hi Sasha – You’re not the first to ask me that and I haven’t come up with any good possibilities. Don’t dump it down the drain, though because it is really greasy and could clog it. Find a spot to dump it outside.
Hi Christie – For handwashing dishes I use a diluted Sal Suds solution. I keep a bottle that is 1/4 sal Suds, 3/4 water for dishes. This doesn’t work in dishwashers, though. The Sal Suds produce too many bubbles.
All the best,
Lisa
Can you use liquid Castile soap to wash dishes and then a vinegar/water rinse?
Hi Christie – If you’re washing dishes in hard water with castile soap, you’re probably noticing a film on the glassware. This is from hard water deposits, and vinegar will take care of them. Ideally, you would want to wash the dishes, rinse them in water, then rinse them in a vinegar solution.
All the best,
Lisa
I just wasted a ton of Bragg’s Apple Cider Vinegar and Dr. Bronner’s Tea Tree Liquid Castile Soap by mixing a buttload together in an empty glass bottle which I was going to use for my dandruff issues. BIG MISTAKE. Of course, I read this AFTER I did it and now I understand why the mess happened. Probably should have taken a chemistry class in high school haha. Oh well. Thanks for posting this online and people take the advice x2 from someone that just wasted way more than this picture. Cheers.
I notice when I mop my high shine laminate floors with vinegar, alcohol and a touch of Dawn, the floor seems to have a film on it. Could the Dawn also be reacting to the vinegar and causing this? Thanks
Hi Andrew – I’m sorry to hear that. I hope others get your message beforehand, too.
Hi Patsy – Dawn is a detergent, so it would not have the same reaction with the vinegar. I’m not sure what would be causing the film, unless the solution wasn’t being fully picked up with the mop.
All the best,
Lisa
Hi, Lisa! I have a recipe that calls for liquid castile soap and vinegar together along with other ingredients. It has worked well for me, but I always noticed a film of oil at the top of the spray bottle (what I thought was essential oils). Not it’s making more sense that it is unsaponified soap. Here’s the recipe:
1/2 tsp of liquid castile soap
1 tsp Borax
1 tsp of washing soda
1/2 cup white vinegar
2 cups hot water
25-30 drops of essential oil
My question is how much Sal Suds can I use to replace the Castile soap? Is there a ratio that I should always consider when replacing the Castile soap with Sal Suds? I’m going to look at the rest of my cleaning recipes to make sure that the rest of them don’t have both vinegar and Castile soap. Thanks for your help!
Hi Mary – To replace castile soap in a recipe, use half the amount of Sal Suds.
All the best,
Lisa
Hi,
I am using this in our dishwasher. How can I use vinegar for a rinsing step you suggest. Would I add vinegar to the same sectiont hat we add jet-dri into? Can i add that in a start the cycle? will the soap and vinegar mix in that case?
Appreciate your help.
The recipe I saw that mixed Dr. Bonners with vinegar and lemon juice you actually cooked on the stove. I have always heard that cooking changes chemical properties, would this help the problem of them canceling each other out? I was really hoping to use that recipe because our water is so hard that from time to time it will plug the rinse aid dispenser so having vinegar in the soap seems like a great help to me.
Aaraena – Yes the vinegar goes into the jet-dry section. You just fill it up like you normally would do with jet-dry and it disperses it at the end (once the soap is gone.
Hello,
I’ve been reading all the posts about making dish washing liquid. I too mixed the Castile soap with vinegar before I read all of the posts not to do so. I had spots and an oily film on all of my dishes. I just found online a suggestion about mixing a teaspoon of Castile soap with a teaspoon of baking soda. I tried this and mixed a little water into it as well, just enough to make it pourable into the dishwashing dispenser. I also added some vinegar to the rinse cycle. I’m currently re-washing this load of dishes to see if it works. I understand the concern about the Castile soap in the dishwasher creating too many suds. So far there are no suds coming out of my dishwasher. The baking soda seems to have calmed the sudsing action, but when I tried to wash my hands with it I still got enough suds when rubbing my hands. I’m hoping this is the solution for the dishwasher. What do you think? I would also assume that this would be a good toothpaste combination, minus the vinegar.
I have hard water where I live, but Ive read that distilled water prevents that gritty salt feeling that can be left behind when castile soap mixes with hard water. Is that true? And if so what ratios would be best for cleaning bathrooms and mopping?
Does this logic also apply with sal suds? do they leave anything behind or not because it isn’t really soap? I’m new to all this and trying to learn.
I’m also wondering when to use Castille vs Sall suds?
Thanks and so glad I came across this website. I love it!
Have you tested the alcohol/castile mix yet? Very curious as I’d like a sufactant+disinfectant too…but have to ditch my old water-vinegar-soap-essential oil combo!
I’m very glad I ran into this site. I am just getting on board with making my own dish liquid. This information will definitely be of help. I have found several recipes that do not call for vinegar or lemon juice. Thank you Miss Lisa.
Hi Lisa–this article was the one that kept me coming back for more! Love your site. I hope you don’t mind I referred and linked to it in my article. http://lifeimproved.org/2013/03/16/the-solution-to-my-solution/.
Hi, I’ve recently developed very severe skin allergies towards all commercial soaps in the last couple years. I was looking for a recipe for natural dish soap for handwashing dishes and I came across this, luckily before I tried the Castile/vinegar combo. What recipe do you recommend for killing germs on dishes? I would like to stick with the Castile soap and avoid Sal Suds if possible because my skin is extremely sensitive to detergents. Do I just mix the soap with water? Would that kill germs from raw chicken or do I need to add something else too?
Thanks!
So this is dangerous? should we call 911 if they get mixed together?
Hello!
I read in the comments that you didn’t like borax due to its toxicity…I have been using a homemade laundry detergent recipe because I thought it would be the least toxic option for our newborn’s clothes…Can you please provide any feedback?
Thank you!
RECIPE:
1 bar of castille soap – grated fine
1 cup washing soda
1 cup borax
Use 1 tsp in load.
Hello, let me start by saying that I am so very confused right now. I want to start making homemade whitening laundry detergent, but there are SO many recipes out there. Most call for borax, washing powder and either castile soap or fels-naptha. I won’t use the latter because of the chemicals in it (trying to get away from all that stuff), but I’ve read that castile tends to leave residue behind when used on things like showers. Would it leave a residue on clothes as well? Thanks. BTW, very helpful blog, thank you!
Hi Lisa,
I happened to stumble upon your blog when i was searching for information about castile soap. I am trying to make an all natural shampoo for my very damaged hair, but one of the ingredients is lemon juice.. so will this not mix well at all? or was your post only about cleaning products for around the house? Also i would like to know if using castile soap is okay for colored hair?